surfing (continued)

yay surfing! weather was good, waves were HUGE. like, all we had to do was wade into about less than waist level and the waves were big enough to surf already. and coz we had to carry the boards out and surf inwards, it went something like, 3 steps forward, and a wave sweeps u back 1 step. super super tiring. and balancing on the board was damn hard! i stood up a grand total of 4 times. *applause* bena (with her sailing + ballet background) managed to stand up alot more times. hmph.

oh and i discovered a cheaterbug lazy method of not having to paddle... wait for 2 consecutive waves... so the first one gives forward momentum and immediately the second one can be used to surf. yay!

but 3 consecutive waves are BAD. example: i used the first to surf, got knocked down by the second, and got flipped by the third. tt's how frequent and strong the waves were.

will post pics soon...!